An Extraordinary Jubilee!

Holy Doors of St. Peter's in Rome

On Friday March 13 during a ceremony in St. Peter's Basilica to celebrate the two year anniversary of the papacy of Pope Francis, the Holy Father announced that starting on the feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8, an extraordinary Jubilee year will begin. The extraordinary Jubilee will last until November 20, 2016, marking the the 27th Jubilee in History.

In the Catholic tradition, a Jubilee is the mother of all religious events. It is a time for the remission of sins and of suffering from sin, reconciliation, conversion, and sacramental penance.
Interestingly, according to biblical regulations the Jubilee has its origin in Israel where according to Leviticus, slaves and prisoners would be freed, debts would be forgiven and the mercies of God would be particularly manifest. The start of the holy year would be made formal by the blowing of a ram's horn. Here in Rome, rather, the Holy year begins when the Pope himself opens the Holy Doors of St. Peter's. These special doors remain open only during the Jubilee, during which pilgrims will pass through them as they enter St. Peter's in search of penance. At the end of the year they are once again sealed until the following Holy Year.

Jubilee time in Rome equates to a boom in overall tourism. Hotels, tours of Rome and the Vatican, restaurants, shops, and transport are likely to experience a much needed boom in the coming year. The strong dollar-euro exchange will make it advantageous for Americans to travel to Italy for this yearlong event.

In addition to our classic tours of the Vatican and Rome, When In Rome Tours will soon be revealing a series of Rome Jubilee Tours.

Stand Up! Comedy in Rome

An Englishman, a Canadian and an Italian walk into a bar......sounds like the beginning of a joke right? In fact it's the beginning of many. In a small street just behind Campo de Fiori on the last Friday of every month 'Rome's Comedy Club' springs into life as amateur Rome based stand-up comedians from all over the world perform in English to a mixture of locals, expats and tourists alike. The brainchild of Ohio born Marsha De Salvatore, Rome's Comedy Club has been running since 2008 and from it's humble beginnings in the attic of a local pub where a handful of audience members were treated to a mixture of comedy sketches and stand up, it has now established itself as a regular and not to be missed part of Rome's nightlife. Of course, comedy has always been a part of Roman life, Plautus and Ennius were writing comic plays in the 3rd century BC, years before the first 'knock knock' joke was told and in 2009 an ancient Roman joke book was unearthed dating from around the 3rd century containing over 260 jokes. 

Thanks to a little more modern day comic actors such as Alberto Sordi, Totò and Roberto Benigni, Italian cinema has never been short of comic genius. There are a few TV shows dedicated to Italian stand up comedians, but there is nothing like getting up close and personal in a proper comedy club and thanks to those few funny, dedicated and downright ballsy amateurs at Rome's Comedy Club you too can enjoy a night out unlike any other Rome event. 

If you're visiting Rome and fancy an alternative night out in the centro storico after a day or two of sightseeing and perhaps a Vatican tour too, check out Rome Comedy Club! 

It would be rude not to finish with a joke taken straight from that Roman joke book (rotten tomatoes at the ready)........a patient tells a doctor “whenever I get up after a sleep, I feel dizzy for half an hour, then I’m all right.” The doctor replies” ‘Then wait half an hour before getting up.”

To Anzio from Rome

The pretty coastal town of Anzio is just 50km south of Rome, making it an ideal day trip destination for those who want to get out of Rome's bustling city centre. During August it's idyllic beachside bars and restaurants play host to many of Rome's residents as they escape the scorching city heat to find solace in the waves and cooling sea breeze. 

It hasn't always been like that though. In the winter of 1944 Anzio was the landing site for tens of thousands of Allied troops as they disembarked on the surrounding beaches to begin their long and deadly march to Rome in what was to be one of the most important and crucial battles of World War Two. The Anzio museum, which is housed in the 16th century Villa Adele, has a section dedicated to the beachhead landings and the two war cemeteries within the town are well worth a visit. The museum also displays relics from the nearby Roman theatre and many treasures found in and around local lad Nero's Palace (Nero was born in Anzio, then called 'Antium' in the year 37). Spanning the whole of the west side of the main beach you can explore the remains of this huge villa, with it's intricate tunnels and tiled floors and ceilings. A guided tour will give you access to the modern day lighthouse that sits atop the villa.

Eating in Anzio is an absolute treat as you are spoiled for choice when it comes to small, local, family owned restaurants that offer fresh seafood caught that very morning for extremely reasonable prices. The pretty town centre with it's tree-lined piazza is an ideal place to grab an afternoon coffee and watch the world go by. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon make your way to the port as the local fishermen sell their mornings catch straight from the back of their boats, for just 5 euros you can easily pick up an array of fresh fish and shellfish ready for the pot. The return journey from Anzio to Rome passes through the beautiful Lazio countryside via the 'Castelli Romani', and the ancient 'Appian Way' flanked by it's historical aqueducts and towers. So, with sea, sand, culture and delicious seafood, Anzio tours and day trips from Rome offer a great way to escape the city and to discover everything this beautiful seaside town has to offer.

Miracles of Ancient Rome

While strolling through Rome's city centre, I happened to pass the Colosseum while a crew of workers was attempting to lift a small piece of marble column. When I say small, I mean about as tall as I am, and a few times rounder. One cubic foot of marble weighs about 160 lbs. I don't know how many lbs. this slab of rock could possibly weigh, but it took the largest crane I have ever seen to move it.

While watching these men slowly but surely strap it in and move it ever so carefully, it got me thinking. If this is what it takes to move about 1/10 of a marble column in 2012, imagine what it involved 2000 years ago! All of the material I have ready suggests that marble was most often moved by barge, with the help of complicated hoisting gear and surely an army of men and animals to assist. What I wouldn't give to witness a tour of the Colosseum when it was being built!

Bartering for Food in Florence

As the saying goes, drastic times call for drastic measures. In the midst of a crippling economic crisis in Italy, one new Florentine restaurant is making headlines by allowing clients to return to the ancient practice of bartering for meals.

Instead of paying money for a meal at “L'e' Maiala,” a new trattoria in downtown Florence, clients will be able to offer a barter. When calling to reserve a table, hopeful guests will be able to negotiate how and what to offer in exchange for their dinner. Items considered appropriate for exchange include locally grown fresh or jarred goods, handicrafts, and even antiques. Some of the goods exchanged will be used to decorate the new restaurant.

L'e' Maiala will specialize in traditional Tuscan cuisine with generous portions and modest prices. It's something unique and well worth experiencing, in a charming city where local character is often missed by visitors who are touring Florence in a day or even less.

For more information on this new Florentine eatery, check out this link (Italian).

Easter in Rome: To Bless, or Not to Bless.

There is a nice tradition in Italy where every year before Easter, the Parish Priests of each of the local Catholic Churches divide up the neighborhood and make a home visit to every household in order to offer an Easter blessing.
It seems that each year, this phenomenon provokes different reactions in me. One of the first years that I lived here and was actually home when the priest came, we had him come in, he shook some incense around and mumbled a prayer, and went on his way.

A few years later, when I had a newborn child at home, the knock on my door took me by surprise (who has time to read those little white announcements while fighting to survive the sleepless hell of new motherhood?). I opened the door, and saw a middle aged man wearing a robe, and was instantly terrified (this time, the paranoid fears of new motherhood). I told him "No Grazie" and closed the door.

The following  year, when I saw the notice downstairs I made it a point to stay late working on Vatican Tours, dreading that it would be the same guy who got the door slammed in his face.

This year, I believe that one should never turn away a blessing or well-wishing, no matter who it comes from. In this chaotic world, we can use all the help we can get. I only hope he doesn't mind when I ask to see his credentials.

The Most Expensive Meal of My Life

After more than ten years living in the Eternal City and several months researching food in Rome, I finally had a chance to try out Rome's famous Michelin starred restaurant, La Pergola. La Pergola is located on the top floor of the Hilton Cavalieri Hotel. Getting to the Hilton Cavalieri from Rome is not easy, as it is located high in the hills of Monte Mario, outside of the city centre.

From the moment we entered the service was impeccable. The ratio of staff to guests seemed to be 10 to 2. One gentleman takes the coats, another pushes in your seat, another unfolds your napkin, still another brings a water menu (there is a 300 Euro bottle of water on it!), same guy brings the water though. One man brings the wine list, another brings the bread basket (at least 12 times).

At a loss for what to order on the menu, we decided to try the gourmet tasting menu for a mere 190 Euro per person. As the courses began arriving, each was intricately put together and pleasing to the palate. The braised scallops were better than I have had anywhere in Europe.

This broth was not my favourite, but fellow diners did appreciate it. I guess when it came down to it, the dish that won me over was this interesting twist on a traditional Roman favourite:

These fagottini are filled with a purée of Carbonara (egg, pecorino, and pork jowel). These were melt in your mouth delicious and quickly rose to the top of my favourites for the evening. But not for long.

The fillet of beef with pistachio crust and chestnut purée will indeed hold a special place in my heart from now until eternity.

 As will this cheese cart. I nearly tried to roll it right into the elevator to take it home with me.

Oh, and the desserts were not too shabby either. Chocolate soufflé was light and just chocolatey enough to be sinful but not overbearing.

Complimenti chef Heinz Beck! The experience wouldn't look out of place alongside our Exclusive VIP Tours of Rome! I can't wait to return one day, after I save up for about 8 more years to be able to afford it.

World's Largest Stations of the Cross on Display at the Vatican

Via Della Conciliazione is one of Rome's broadest streets, that which leads to St. Peter's Basilica, the mother of all Catholic Churches.

As part of a Lenten blessing, the Vatican is having the world's largest stations of the cross installed along the road. 49 Statues and 11 crosses make up the series which Pasquale Nava and Giuseppe Allamprese have been working on for the last 9 years.

The Stations will remain in place throughout Easter in Rome, possibly until the canonization of Pope John Paul II on May 1 in Rome.

More about the creation of the worlds largest stations of the cross here. 

Colosseum Has a New Sugar Daddy

A call for bids began last July for contractors hoping to take part in the reservation of Rome's most famous monument, the Colosseum. While the bid process continues, until now it was uncertain where the actual funds for the restoration would come from. More attention has been drawn to the dilemma after an ancient dwelling in Pompeii suddenly crumbled to the ground, an embarrassing blow to the Italian state.
It appears as though help is on the way from the UK. After a grueling search for someone to pay for much needed renovations to Rome's crumbling Colosseum, Diego Della Valle, president of Tod's (UK leather goods producer) has pledged 25 million dollars in restoration funds.
As anyone who has recently been sightseeing in Rome can tell you, the Flavian Amphitheatre has seen better days. It's difficult to count all the fires, earthquakes, lightning strikes, and barbarian attacks this massive arena has endured.
Completed in 80 AD, the arena was home to all types of Ancient Roman games, from gladiator battles to mock safaris and naval battles, entertaining up to 55,000 Romans in its three levels of seating.
In an article in “Il Sole 24 Ore” today, Lazio regional president Renata Polverini was quoted as saying “Just as the world likes to imitate Tod's leather goods, let's hope they'll imitate with large donations too”.

Image courtesy of creative commons.

Sightseeing in Rome

Whether it is your first time or your 10th, while sightseeing in Rome you just never know what you might stumble upon. Just since the first of the year, here are a few events that both Romans and tourists sightseeing in Rome have been able to enjoy:




Piazza Navona: the annual Christmas Market and celebration of La Befana, the good witch who brings candy-filled stockings to children on the eve of January 6

St. Peter's Square: As if the massive life sized nativity and giant christmas tree weren't enough to take in at the Vatican, this week there is an event celebrating animals and their trainers. Tourists arriving to tour the Vatican had to do a double take to figure out if they were at Old MacDonald's Farm or the Holy See today!

Piazza Re di Roma: In the middle of the city, this roundabout piazza has been transformed into an ice skating rink and lodge. For 10 Euro, residents and tourists alike can rent skates and have a spin around the piazza, amidst the hustle and bustle of Roman life.

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele: In the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino (the quarter's new covered market), tribal percussion and dance performances are breaking out when least expected. You could be there picking through the oranges and suddenly the place transforms into a hub of rhythm and movement.

(Also in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the man in the picture, quietly stretching and meditating in the middle of the busy park).

There you have it, as you can see there is always more Sightseeing in Rome to be done, whether you have been here for a day or a decade!

ANOTHER New Neighbor - roll out the red carpet!

For those of you who are sick and tired of our Burger King posts, read no further.

While driving along Via Tuscolana to IKEA for some shopping, I had to do a  double take when I saw this massive free standing Burger King that just had a grand opening!

Look to the right, a DRIVE THRU (Well here they call it the KING DRIVE)!

Eat Your Heart Out, McItaly. There's a New Panino in Town

I can only assume that this panino is Burger King's response to the blasphemous "McItaly" panino made with asiago cheese and artichoke spread.

Burger King Italy has just launched it's Tendercrisp Parmigiano-Reggiano Burger. Sesame seed bun, ketchupy secret sauce, fried chicken, Parmigiano Reggiano, Fried Bacon, Tomato, lettuce, more secret sauce, more bread, and of course a parmigiano crown.

SO Italian I can barely stand it! 

Three Reasons to Head Even Farther South

A few weeks ago Danielle hosted fellow American expat in southern Italy, Laura of Ciao Amalfi, who wrote about the top five reasons to head south of Rome.

Naples, Pompeii … the Amalfi Coast. Yea … definitely reasons to visit Campania. But today, I’m going to share with you three reasons to head even farther south and into Basilicata and Calabria. 

 

1. Maratea

Maratea is on the Tyrrhenian Coast, about 200 kilometers south of Naples in the region of Basilicata. It is the most popular beach resort in the region and is well-known for its natural grottoes, the black sand beach, Spiaggia Nera and the Redentore-the Christ the Redeemer statue that towers 72 feet over a rocky crag. It is also called “The City of 44 Churches,” because of the two dozen churches spread throughout the village.

2. Scalea

Scalea is a popular seaside town-and one of my favorite villages in Italy-that is just 30 kilometers further south in the region of Calabria. The old town gets its name, “Scalea,” from the hundreds of stone steps that lead into the historical center.

Once inside, visitors can search for hidden Byzantine mosaics or climb all the way to the top of the hill for panoramic views of the Cedri Rivieria.

3. Tropea

Continuing south on our Tyrrhenian tour of Calabria and Basilicata-170 kilometers south to be exact-we will find Tropea. Tropea is by far the most popular name in Calabrian beach towns. Its Easter-egg colored water, rocky cliffs and iconic Santa Maria dell’Isola church have all proven inspirational for photographers and travelers and the little village is brimming with contagious energy.

Cherrye Moore is a freelance writer and Calabria tour consultant living in southern Italy. She writes about travel for MNUI Travel Insurance and about living and traveling in Calabria on her site, My Bella Vita.

Three Reasons to Head Even Farther South

A few weeks ago Danielle hosted fellow American expat in southern Italy, Laura of Ciao Amalfi, who wrote about the top five reasons to head south of Rome.

Naples, Pompeii … the Amalfi Coast. Yea … definitely reasons to visit Campania. But today, I’m going to share with you three reasons to head even farther south and into Basilicata and Calabria. 

 

1. Maratea

Maratea is on the Tyrrhenian Coast, about 200 kilometers south of Naples in the region of Basilicata. It is the most popular beach resort in the region and is well-known for its natural grottoes, the black sand beach, Spiaggia Nera and the Redentore-the Christ the Redeemer statue that towers 72 feet over a rocky crag. It is also called “The City of 44 Churches,” because of the two dozen churches spread throughout the village.

2. Scalea

Scalea is a popular seaside town-and one of my favorite villages in Italy-that is just 30 kilometers further south in the region of Calabria. The old town gets its name, “Scalea,” from the hundreds of stone steps that lead into the historical center.

Once inside, visitors can search for hidden Byzantine mosaics or climb all the way to the top of the hill for panoramic views of the Cedri Rivieria.

3. Tropea

Continuing south on our Tyrrhenian tour of Calabria and Basilicata-170 kilometers south to be exact-we will find Tropea. Tropea is by far the most popular name in Calabrian beach towns. Its Easter-egg colored water, rocky cliffs and iconic Santa Maria dell’Isola church have all proven inspirational for photographers and travelers and the little village is brimming with contagious energy.

Cherrye Moore is a freelance writer and Calabria tour consultant living in southern Italy. She writes about travel for MNUI Travel Insurance and about living and traveling in Calabria on her site, My Bella Vita.

Italian Obsession with Cleaning, Part II

You may recall our last piece on the Italian obsession with keeping an immaculate home. Today I could not help but snap a few pictures as I caught my neighbor in the act.


Here's how it all went down. It's 7:30 AM on a rainy and dreary morning in Rome. As I wait for my coffee to brew, I stumble over to the window and see that my neighbor, a true creature of habit, has her yellow gloves on and is meticulously cleaning between each fold of the window shutters. She does this EVERY morning at 7:30.

Even while it is raining she cleans those bad boys, despite the fact that the rain will only bring down more dirt and soot onto her windows which she will annihilate tomorrow, I have no doubt.

 Did I mention what time it was??

Ah, and five minutes later, downstairs from Mrs. Clean, two of the cutest little old ladies I have ever seen were learning out their windows to gossip while it continued to drizzle down on this Roman street at 7:40 in the morning. Another day in Rome has begun my friends. Live and let clean...

A visit to charming Montefioralle

Nestled in the heart of the Chianti countryside, high above the nearby town of Greve is the cutest little walled town called Montefioralle. This ancient fortified city is one of the oldest in the area and still retains its initial walls.

The tiny village, mostly free of cars, drips charm at every twist and turn. It's what you picture when you close your eyes and think of Tuscany.

Crumbling, old, mismatched stone walls in hues ranging from beige to gold to brick red; winding cobbled pathways, with curved gateways, which reveal welcoming wooden doorways with pots and pots of colorful flowers spilling out over the entrance; miniature-sized windows framed in shutters and shrouded in intricate lace curtains which dance slightly in the breeze.

Over the years, the village has belonged to the Ricasoli, Benci, Vespucci and Gherardini families. As you wander the area, keep your eye out for a 'V' and a wasp carved into stone above one of the doors depicting the house where Amerigo Vespucci lived. Don't miss a visit to the gothic church of Santo Stefano, which has been restored and houses many pieces of notable artwork.

Though the village has a restaurant, it is the perfect vantage point from which to enjoy a picnic lunch perched on one of its stone walls, while enjoying the surrounding postcard views of lush vineyards and olive groves.
Or, for those wanting a bit more exercise, there are walking paths and hiking trails which pass by villas, farmhouses and old churches. Greve is about a 20 minute walk and further afield, Panzano can be reached by way of back roads.

And if you are into Sagre (festivals paying homage to food), visit in mid-March for The Sagre delle Fritelle, which is a celebration of fried rice balls.

No matter what time of year you visit, don't forget to bring your camera - you won't want to miss capturing the picturesque houses, village or views of Tuscany that you'll find here.

Robin Locker is a France and Italy travel consultant, freelance travel writer and photographer who hopes to one day realize her dream of living La Dolce Vita in her beloved Italy. She writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and on her own site, My Melange" She is addicted to social media - you can follow her on Twitter @MyMelange.

Underground Rome

Everyone loves Rome; I guess that’s why all roads lead there and bring zillions of tourists each year. However, what many of them don’t realize is that there is so much more to this ancient city than the street-level archaeological sites they visit, such as the Colosseum and the Roman Forum.

The Eternal City is actually an underground labyrinth of antiquities, some revealed and many yet to be uncovered. Intrepid travelers should know that many of them are also accessible and oh, so much fun to visit. In a city that is over 3,000 years old, it would be impossible to list all of the underground treasures, so here are the top 3 of Underground Rome, at least in this wanderlust woman’s opinion:

1. Crypta Balbi – is a small museum with a wealth of offerings into the dark ages of Rome’s history. It is actually a working archaeological site. You enter at street level, leaving modern life behind, and descend into centuries of ancient life, complete with insula (Roman apartment buildings); a lime kiln, ancient bathrooms and more. It is right near the Trevi Fountain. Many artifacts are housed in the street-level museum but you will need a guide to take you through the subterranean archaeological site, so inquire at the ticket window. It is well worth the visit. (By the way, it is a recent discovery by Roman standards, having only been unearthed in 1981 and open to the public twenty years later. It is called the Crypta Balbi because at one time it served as the Theater of Balbus, one of Caesar Augustus’ most important military advisors.)
   
   

2. Church of San Nicola in Carcere – this is an unassuming church on Via del Teatro Marcello. From the outside you see some old columns and crumbling walls and it may appear to be any old church. Ah, there is your first mistake. This church was built on and in the site of the Forum Holitorium, the ancient food and oil market of Rome. The outer columns actually date from the 3rd century B.C. and the ruins in the back church yard are equally as ancient. The columns are the remains of the Temple of Juno and now built into the walls of the modern day church, which is about 400 years old. Below ground are bits of the Temples of June and Spes. There have been reports of a church on this site since the third century although the commemorative plaque on the current church dates from 1128 A.D. You are allowed to enter and go below the altar. This was spooky and quite mysterious for a Catholic school girl who didn’t think anyone but priests could enter below the altar or sacristy. Once down there, peak through the windows which lie between the ancient columns. It is a strange view of how layers of history lie just below the surface of everyday life in Rome.

3. Vatican Necropolis (a/k/a – Scavi) – this is the ancient necropolis under the Vatican and admission is reserved to a select few each day (unless you’re on one of the lucky When in Rome tours). You descend under the most notable church in the world, St. Peter’s Basilica, through 16 centuries of history, viewing ancient paths and tombs, seeing preserved frescoes, until you come upon what is believed to be the grave of St. Peter. If you want a sneak preview before your Roman adventure, the Vatican offers a great virtual and interactive tour on its website.

Solo Traveler Tip – all of these sites except the Vatican Necropolis are open during the evening hours and will give the single tourist something to do in this city with so much to offer.

Lisa Fantino is an award-winning journalist and attorney and the creative force behind Wanderlust Women Travel (and soon Wanderlust Weddings). She also writes travel features for MNUI Travel Insurance and blogs as Lady Litigator.

The New Boy in Town

Yesterday as I was leaving my office, I noticed there is a new "boy next door" to me. Tall, dark, great smile, well dressed. Sadly, this is no Italian Stallion. It is a 6 foot tall hot dog. That's right folks, Mr. Hot Dog has moved into the vacant shop next door, right on Via Cavour a stones throw from the Roman Forum. Will it survive where others have failed? Only time will tell. His menu is strictly hot dogs, of all shapes & sizes.

While I can't imagine passing up good Italian food for a hot dog while sightseeing in Rome, I suppose there are some who feel there is never a bad time for a weaner.

Experiencing the Museum of Life in Rome

It is no secret that Rome is not my favorite city in Italy.  It's not that I don't like spending a little time there or that there aren't tons of things to do, but it's just not the Italy that fills my heart or makes me feel like I am home when I'm there.

But, that said, there are many things that I love to do in Rome.  And most of them don't involve The Vatican or The Forum. In fact, I prefer to be outside, enjoying and experiencing what I like to call the museum of life.

One of my favorite pastimes is the simple and inexpensive act of wandering. Rome has so many great places to just walk and discover.  I love just strolling around the Trastevere and Monti neighborhoods and down the Via Giulia- one of the oldest streets in Rome.  I can spend hours sneaking glimpses of Roman life and peering into the lovely courtyards while imagining what it must be like to live there.

Another way to watch Roman life go by is spending time in a Roman piazza. My favorites? The Piazza Navona, home to the famous Bernini fountain, always has such an energy surrounding it and seems to have something interesting going on all the time.  The other is the Piazza della Rotonda, which also has a lovely fountain, but happens to be the site of the Pantheon, one of the most stunning monuments in the eternal city.  Many piazzas are lined with cafes and trattorias, which make excellent vantage points from which to soak up the local atmosphere.

Spending time shopping at an outdoor food market is also a great way to mingle with the locals.  One of my favorite markets is the Campo dei Fiori, which has a tasty mix of fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables, fish, meats, spices, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and flowers on offer.

Robin Locker is a France and Italy travel consultant, freelance travel writer and photographer who hopes to one day realize her dream of living La Dolce Vita in her beloved Italy. She writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and on her own site, My Melange. She is addicted to social media - you can follow her on Twitter @MyMelange.

"For Starters"

“How was your food, sir?” said the waiter.

I just stared at him.

Sometimes you're faced with questions that are such a can of worms, that offer so many places to start your answer that you're struck dumb, your mind filled with unfurling possibilities and your mouth flapping in the vain hope that one of them will reach daylight through it.

I wanted to explain to him that the food I'd just had was the best, the very best I'd enjoyed anywhere, ever. I'm no stranger to the gustative magic of Mediterranean food, but this had been a ticker-tape parade of taste, a wild, raucous party going on in my mouth (now moved to my stomach). Here in the hills above Giulianova, surrounded by the rolling green quilt of Italy's Abruzzo region, I'd had the word “food” redefined for me.

But that seemed hackneyed and inadequate. Instead, I felt the urge to explain that I came from England, a country where all too often, food wasn't a social event, a chance to sit down with your neighbours and loved ones or to turn strangers into friends. It was something done hurriedly, in between more important things. You shovelled the calories down and then you left. Sometimes you forgot you were eating at all, your eyes glued to a book or a flickering television. Mealtime was No Big Deal. And looking around at all the tables arranged at this oh-so-very-Italian wedding feast, I could see how desperately broken that relationship with food was in comparison with the one I was enjoying a glimpse of here.

But that seemed too philosophical. He didn't want philosophy: he was merely being polite, on the way to clearing away my plate. And if he did that, I wouldn't have anywhere to put the dollop of carbonara I'd been eyeing for the last couple of minutes, waiting just the right amount of time to be polite before I pounced.

So I said “Delicious. Mm!”, made a faintly ludicrous lip-smacking gesture that instantly singled me out as Foreign, and held my plate down on the table so he couldn't whip it away. With a bemused air and the hint of a cocked eyebrow the waiter moved on, leaving me to gaze down the table at the still-absurd amount of food laid out for us, at the laughing, giggling, chattering guests basking in the afternoon sunshine. In a week I'd be back in England, where food didn't usually make this happen between people.

Well – now I knew better.

And then I thought of the answer I should have given the waiter – the best and only real answer under the circumstances.

“It's a good start.”

Mike Sowden is a freelance travel-writer and blogger. He writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and for his own site Fevered Mutterings. Catch up with him on Twitter @Mikeachim.